Sarah Burton’s final collection for Alexander McQueen opened with a black tailored mini dress: broad at the shoulders, drawn tightly at the waist and cut open through the centre of the bodice.

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In her first collection for Givenchy, a grey mini dress returned to much of the same architecture. The narrow opening through the bodice at McQueen had become a deep neckline. The shoulders and waist remained.

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How much of a silhouette belongs to the house, and how much travels with the designer?